If like me you are partial to setting your own lighting with a wide brimmed fedora, to the complement of shiny leather with sheer chiffon and have recently taken to tying flamboyant pussy-bows over the most unorthodox of outfits in a way Mrs. Thatcher never envisaged her favourite of necklines, then Hedi Slimane’s premiere show as head designer for the newly renamed St Laurent Paris is for you too.
A homage to Yves St Laurent’s archive of aspirational wearability, the collection confronted the icons of his past: the Moroccan tassels, the ‘Le Smoking’ suiting with it’s feminine/masculine interplay, combined with a veritable roster of references to YSL’s contemporaries who defined the rockstar cool of the house’s heyday.
From Cher, to Anita Pallenburg, from Stevie Nicks, to Patti Smith, this was a collection which successfully eased into the framework Slimane’s pivotal position as leader of a new era for the house, one which honoured it’s past with a collection suitable for the contemporary cool: trousers were Slimane-slim, cut to the ankle, while longer layers multiplied into cloakish bedevilment. As you might have guessed, I loved the show! Am so excited to see this iconography of magic via a silhouette where the cat-bows,the chiffon, the capes and the collars, add power to the resonating clean lines of an updated rocktastic silhouette. Bravo Hedi Slimane; Long Live St Laurent Paris.